A Story behind “Sa-Pune” or An ongoing struggle for gender equality just a stroll away from UNMIK

8 Мар

Just a stroll away from UNMIK, at Roma Mahalla in Fushё Kosovё/Kosovo Polje one can find a house with an unusually bright sign for this area — “The Ideas Partnership”. Over the last 6 years, this house became a great development hub for the local Roma, Ashkali and Egyptian communities. At the center, run by the locals, women and children learn how to read and write, educate themselves about healthy practices and empower each other by working together (there are also courses of physiotherapy for children with disabilities and doctor consultations, otherwise unavailable to the community, but that’s another story (or is it, really?).

About a year ago, a group of the local Roma and Ashkali women in Fushë Kosovë/Kosovo Polje started to produce hand-made scented natural soap to make up some small money for their living. This simple idea is challenging the whole traditional system of values, where traditionally men are the only bread-winners for those families.

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Today, these women say that their world has totally changed – they became more independent and by inspiring each other they learned the basics of how to read and write, they became more involved in the community issues and they got recognition among their male family members. The only condition for participating in this project is that the children from those families should attend school – which brings another qualitative change to the life of the community.

The project is called “Sa-Pune” – a very meaningful game of words in Albanian language — with “sapun” = soap and “sa pune” = how much work 😊

And if you are interested in making your first piece of soap – they can teach you too!

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Kosovska Mitrovica: captured in time

16 Фев

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While Pristina is opening one fancy outlet after another, internationals keep Kosovo on the bucket list of «must see» places due to the recent war story and dynamic night life (yes, this weird mix produces a very exotic and tempting flavor for adventure seekers), and tabloids stir up the temperature of political debates with the Wall, the Train and Haradinaj’s arrest, the time in North Mitrovica, which is more known as Kosovska Mitrovica has stopped a while ago. The EU project on the Bridge revitalization, pedestrianization and other -tions (reconciliation, stabilization…) has filled the center of this depressed town with dust and paralyzed already limited traffic.

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The Bridge in a way is a time machine — it brings you back to Yugo-times — and those are not the shattered  kiosks with veggies and clothes next to each other that transport you in time — there’s something almost tangible in the overall atmosphere that gives you no doubts that the place belongs to some another reality. This reality is defensively proud and fragile, chaotic in the very essence of the Balkan style, but at the same time feels frozen in the seemingly desperate expectation of a trouble, because something in the «outside» world (Pristina, Belgrade, Brussels…) went wrong… again. This reality can be bitterly sarcastic, just like on the shot below, when the new Serbia’s «hero» — Trump’s billboard was placed right over the old graffiti with a Serbian eagle being captured by a crowd of dark silhouettes saying «from here there’s no way back». With an almost Narnia’s old wardrobe leaning to the wall -just that it doesn’t open the door to a promised fairy-tale land.

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This reality bears a lot of scars — old and recent, but they only add to the shared feeling of isolation and unity among the inhabitants of Kosovska Mitrovica.

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And as these scars remain, the life goes on… Nobody knows where to, exactly… A reality without the sense of belonging to its current status, lost between Kosovo and Serbian legal/educational/political and what-not systems. A sad territory (a French would say desole), which seems to be the first gambling coin in any political game between Belgrade and Pristina, a sad territory with proud people, who get used to cope. 

P.S: I had very similar feeling in Transnistria in 2014 — a sad bubble of a lost reality and people, who learned how to function and continue leaving in an old time mythology of Russian allies and Western enemies, struggling to understand that those bipolar googles are stealing their future.

NB: This article reflects only my personal views and does not represent anyhow the organizations, which I am involved with.

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Refugee crisis: we all need to be a bit more “jihadists” to ourselves

2 Дек

The wave of atrocities in Paris and increase of ISIS activities all around Europe paved the way for many media and individuals in finalizing the equation “refugee = Muslim = terrorist”. When reading the news headlights from various corners of Europe, including my native Russia I face rhetoric of hate and overall mobilization for aggressive “protective” measures. US Muslim girl was forced off Lufthansa plane for the interrogation by FBI, violent attacks against British, French and Belgian Muslims that are happening on a daily basis since the tragic events in Paris, loads of hate speech on social media, TV and radio edits. As a global community we fail to understand that violence does not stop violence, and terrorism is not a justification for hate speech and hate crimes.

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I am resisting to quote the very true phrase that has been cited thousands of times these days, but yet, it does not help to change the wave of aggression merged with fear. ISIS is not a religion and has nothing to do with Islam. No religion stands for cold bloodshed, while it is very convenient to use it for political manipulations. Another fertile soil for political manipulations is fear – it does not come by surprise that nowadays right-wing groups and radical nationalists are raising in national governments and their parties attract more followers than previously. As a global community we have, unfortunately, already passed the threshold, when violence became normal. While facing the numbers of those, who drowned in the Mediterranean, fell victims of street attacks or are today imprisoned in degrading conditions in refugee camps at the outskirts of the Fortress of Europe, how often do we question ourselves that may be we got too comfortable and cynic under the safe haven label of developed countries? How many times did you close the article / changed the channel, when you heard about refugees being violently pushed back by the police, because “this news is too old anyway” and promised to yourself to stay far from “the troublemakers”. Tragedies often do not start from an action, but from the lack of it.

I will not preach about anything, I will just tell a short story of mine and my friends’ random visit to the refugee site next to the Belgrade train station in the early September this year. You will make your own conclusions. It was a conference on prevention of youth radicalization and violent extremism with young people from all countries from Vancouver to Vladivostok and we spoke so much about the refugee crisis and security threats. Somehow in a vague line it was spinning around the same “trinity” – “refugees, Muslims, terrorism”. And the more we spoke, the more obvious it was that very few of us have a deep understanding, based not on media, but on any sort of personal understanding.

On the last day few of us bought some cookies, bread and bottled water and went to face the reality – to visit the spontaneous refugee camp around Belgrade Train Station, which serves as a hub on the way to Europe. We were prepared to the worst and, to my shame, I remember how we decided to remove our phones and valuables from being seen. I remember, we were not scared, but very much alerted, yet persistent. Small park on both sides of the Belgrade Train Station, packed with people, all possible sorts of shelter simulations and very young children with adult eyes. First impression – the conditions of (no, not life) survival of those people were miserable – it was already getting cold and so many of them, coming through 1000-s kilometers did not have any warm clothes, not even talking about tents. Since we didn’t have much, we wanted to give cookies to kids – and the first reaction that we faced from a young lady, speaking in descent English – “we are not in need”. She was happy to show us the poorest families that happily accepted our modest food packages. One moment is stuck in my memory – we gave a box of cookies to the kid with a broken leg in a bandage – he thanked us and immediately limped to share the dainty with his family. These people travelled from Syria, Afghanistan, Pakistan… They lived through the most degrading conditions, being treated worse than animals. What they preserved is a strong sense of community and care about each other. Sadly enough, because nobody else will.

That day and several times afterwards I had a chance to speak to different young men and women, escaping from the conflict areas seeking for any place, where they, at least, will not be under constant fear of them and their families being murdered; any place, where their kids will be able to learn other words except from “war, danger, hide, death”. Many of them spoke descent English, they told me about the jobs they had before, and some showed the pictures of their families, houses, pets… debris of their previous lives. In their “new” lives they face only walls, aggression, fear, disgust and blaming for being the reason for all problems in Europe.

It is not fair to compare, but I saw the same level of suffering, when I met internally displaced persons from Donbass, the conflict area in Ukraine. These people lost everything, but they were not wanted anymore even in their own country, being seen as an extra burden for local authorities, and traitors (especially if they left the conflict area not in the very beginning) – for many of their country-mates.

Being forced to lose your roots, your family, yourself — is a human tragedy, it does not differ for a Muslim, a Christian, a Catholic, a Jew… Being labeled as a criminal and a suspect – and seeing it every time in the gazes of strangers on the street, while you have already lost everything, denies the whole idea of humanity. We cannot proudly speak about European values, when violence – verbal or physical – towards the whole groups of population is seen as normal. After Paris attacks we all live under fear. One of the most usual primary reactions of the human brain is aggression – and we see its reflections everywhere. Being a civilized person means struggling with primary instincts through knowledge and sense of social responsibility. Ironically enough, this will be very close to the original meaning of “jihad” in Islam, which literally means “struggling with your inner demons” – and one can see, how far it is from what is juggled by media. Oh, I foresee, how my next idea can be misinterpreted, but I believe that

In the current times we all should be a bit more of “jihadists” to ourselves – in its original meaning – by struggling with our fears, by not allowing hate to become our rhetoric and by not judging all Muslims for the deeds of those from ISIS, who are so far from the real meaning of Islam.

By not doing so, we create a trap for ourselves – a trap, that diminishes every single hope for humanity. We observe a creation of “perfectly” functioning mechanism “Physical violence, terror, fear, hate, hate speech against “the ones to be blamed”, hate crimes against innocents”. It is in our power to stop the vicious circle – online and offline — and each one of us has the responsibility to do so, if we do not want to live in the world, where violence is a daily reality.

NB: This article reflects only my personal views and does not represent anyhow the organizations, which I am involved with.

One day with TAMAM Albania

30 Мар

Few days ago I became a part of a beautiful activity organized by the volunteers of TAMAM – Albanian youth NGO that devoted their work to providing better future for the children and youngsters of Marqinet – small village just behind Vora commune on the road Tirana-Durres. Start of this story takes us back to 2008 when the explosion of weaponry demolition factory in Gerdec – a village just one kilometer far from Marqinet — took lives of 26 people and more than 300 were injured. The explosion could be heard even in Skopje – 170 km away from the place. That was the threshold when young leaders from Marqinet and Vore decided to unite their efforts and create TAMAM – youth volunteering network that will work with children and youngsters from the damaged area.

I was lucky to meet TAMAM team at the exhibition of youth NGOs in Tirana, where I was presenting our Youth Center “Perspektiva” and No Hate Speech Movement Albania. Since the very first minutes, TAMAM activists offered me their help to prepare the materials and created an amazing atmosphere of friendship and support. If I would have to find one word to describe my impressions of these days – it would be “TEAM” – indeed, with Capslock letters) And thanks to guys and girls from TAMAM I’ve managed to feel like a part of this Team – even for a short period of time.

TAMAM Team invited me to visit their Center – every Saturday they spend the whole day with children of Marqinet: every time children are divided in three groups – Arts, Sports and Foreign language – and rotate after an hour – so every child attends all three activities. I was lucky to become a part of one of these TAMAM’s Saturdays – and it give me a blast of inspiration and ideas for my work in Albania. TAMAM’s Day starts with outdoor energizers – kids are waiting for this day whole week and come to the TAMAM’s Center from the neighboring villages._DSC4772

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After few games children, full of energy, split in three groups to learn languages, explore the world around themselves and play sports. The day when I was there, children started to learn Italian language and received their first books in English and Italian – it was amazing to see, how carefully they draw their names on the exercise books.

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In the group of arts and environment children explore the world around themselves through interesting facts and practical experiences. On 28th of March, for example, they learned about the Earth’s Day, when people all around the world turn off the lights for one hour as a symbol of solidarity and taking care about the planet. That evening many Marqinet children celebrated the Earth’s Day lightening candles together with TAMAM’s activists.

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I can write a lot about that day because it left an amazing mark in my heart and mind, but I think, that the best evidence are smiling faces of children, who come again and again to TAMAM’s Center in Marqinet to learn, discover and develop together with their older friends, who became their second family.

P.S.: Thank you, dear TAMAM Team, for sharing your wonderful work and that amazing day with me! I hope that it is just the beginning of a great coopeperation 😉

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11 Interesting Things About Albania & Human Rights

28 Ноя

On 28th November Albania is celebrating its Independence from the Turkish rule that was overthrown in 1912. Somehow, this dynamic and at the same time ancient country remains very much unknown for the foreigners. Unknown, as usual, creates narratives that are enforced my media. There are lots of negative stereotypes about Albania and Albanians, which are easily erased once you visit this unique country. Here are some interesting facts that open up the modern Albania for you:

1. Albanian people are very hospitable and welcoming — the concept of «all the best for the guest» is deeply rooted in Albanian culture and you will be overwhelmed by the amount of care that you will find once you come to this fascinating country. It also perfectly works once you ask a stranger at the street about directions, for example, and he or she will most likely accompany you there or ask several people around — just to be sure so you wouldn’t be lost

2. Under the leadership of Enver Hoxha, Albania was declared the world’s first atheist state in 1967. Countless churches and mosques were destroyed at the time. After the fall of communism mutual tolerance and respect between different religions became the cornerstone for their development. Here’s a good article about lessons of Muslim-Cristian tolerance in Albania

3. Albania became the first European country and first Muslim-majority country to be visited by Pope Francis — after Brazil, the Holy Land and South Korea. During his visit in September the Pope highlighted the harmonious co-existence between Muslims, Orthodox and Catholics – against a backdrop of turmoil and violence in much of the Islamic world

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4. After the fall of communism and opening the borders Albania was attracting a lot of assistance and development funds from Europe and the U.S. — it helped to shape quite a strong and vibrant civil society that is quite active in the social life especially in the big cities

5. Albanian language is unique and ancient — it is officially recognized as the oldest European language and entitled to have its own linguistic branch — because it simply cannot be related to any other language. Even after 500 years under the Ottoman rule, Albanian language preserved its unique origin and structure

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6. In percentage of Facebook users to the population Albania is at the 6th place in Europe after Iceland, Sweden, Norway, Turkey and Montenegro. Facebook profiles of all leading politicians and political institutions almost replaced the traditional websites in being an effective and modern tool to communicate with the community (source: Internet World Stats)

7. Almost 50 years of communism worked on making men and women equal actors of social life. Despite the stereotypes about obedient Albanian women, they are sometimes much more active and ambitious than men and their dressing style will send you to the latest fashion trends of Italy and Turkey

8. The history of gender roles in Albania makes it even more unique. According to the ancient laws of the Kanun of Leke Dukagjini if the family lost all males (in wars or due to the notorious blood feud), the eldest daughter was recognized as the head of the family. From a young age, the girl was forced by the family to take a vow of chastity – for life. From the perspective of traditional Albanian society, this effectively turned her into a man, a sworn virgin – a burnesha. Now it is no more applied, but you can still meet some old burneshas in the remote mountain villages

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9. In tackling domestic violence Albania has introduced an exact copy of the Austrian model when all involved actors — police, family, medical institutions, educational system and social support agencies have shared responsibility and accountability in revealing and combating domestic violence. Austrian system has been recognized as the best and most effective in Europe. In Albania it is going only through the first steps of implementation, but the results are already very promising

10. Albania is also the only country in Europe, where ALL governmental institutions organize activities for the International Week Against Domestic Violence during 25 November — 10 December (we are right there now 😉

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11. Albania together with other 14 countries was elected to be a member of the United Nations Human Rights Council for a period of three years beginning on 1 January 2015!

There is a way much more to discover about Albania — about its unique culture, history, vibrant mix of deeply-rooted moral values and modernity, its fascinating nature and landscapes. Of course, there are bad sides as in any other country or community, but it shouldn’t prevent you from seeing the positive developments. Once you hear any stereotypes about any country or social group — question yourself, where might they come from and if they are anyhow connected with reality at all. Well, so far the best proven way to challenge prejudices is simply to meet a person from that country or social group — and you’ll see everything by yourself 😉

So, keep your mind open and happy Independence Day, Albania!

1450764_10202696754805310_360664712_nP.S: From the Russian in Albania with love!

«Котлета По-Киевски»

5 Ноя

Я долго не могла решиться принять участие в программе Peacebuilding in Eastern Europe (Миростроительство в Восточной Европе), которая, собственно, состояла из встреч с политическими лидерами в Приднестровье, Молдове и.. да-да, в Украине, а именно, в Киеве. Не могла решиться исключительно из-за политических причин — кто ж знает, каким боком мне может выйти это мероприятие, ну и заголовки в российских СМИ пестрят описаниями украинских кошмаров и беззакония. Пожалуй, главное, чему меня научили 3 года работы в сфере прав человека и бесконечные путешествия по Балканам  чуть ли не автостопом — не верить стереотипам и политически-ориентированным новостям. В итоге после долгих сомнений прямиком с форума No Hate Speech Movement  в Азербайджане я отправилась в Кишинев, где и должен был начаться следующий этап приключений. Молдова меня поразила количеством русско-говорящих, золотом листвы на солнце и, почему-то, поразительно напомнила мое детство в Екатеринбурге — пожалуй, все-таки атмосферой и уютными улочками… А еще у них совершенно бесподобный Музей Этнографии — с невероятно богатой коллекцией, очень трепетным отношением к мельчайшим деталям и великолепным картинам, которые служат панорамой к экспонатам. Об этом, если у меня хватит усидчивости, позже. Отнюдь не несколько дней в Кишиневе побудили меня написать об этой поездке. Поездки в Киев, Приднестровье и Гагауз для меня стали переломными — начну, пожалуй, с Киева — на злобу дня.

В Киев мы с ребятами ехали на автобусе из Кишинева — около 10 часов по тряской дороге (уже потом выяснилось, что водитель блудил полночи — так что и дорога, и время могли бы оказаться другими). Не скрываю, перед границей с Украиной тряслась как осиновый лист и уже морально подготовилась ехать обратно в Кишинев автостопом. К счастью, опасения не оправдались, а украинские таможенники, похоже, напротив, приняли меня с большим радушием, чем одногруппников из США и Европы. Контраст между дорогами и придорожными населенными пунктами в Молдове и Украине разителен (да простят меня радушные молдаване) — в Украине как-то все более организованно и развито. Пейзажи за окном живо напомнили знакомые с детства «Вечера на хуторе близ Диканьки», а серебряный блин полной луны стал окончательным штрихом к картине. В который раз я заметила, что за последние года полтора все мои путешествия приходятся на полнолуние)) — как говорит моя бабушка — «на шабаш, на шабаш»)). В полную меру насладиться красотами я не успела, ибо сморил сон — автобус был ночной и очень уж тряский. В какой-то момент сон резко оборвался…за окном автобуса во всем великолепии огней предстал ночной Киев. К своему великому стыду и при наличии бабушки-украинки, в Украине я была всего один раз — и то проездом, когда все знакомство с Киевом закончилось двадцатью минутами на ж/д платформе. Киев прекрасен — временами, он очень напоминает Москву своими советскими высотками и формами, а иногда он становится совсем европейским — с узенькими мощеными улочками и старинными фонарями. В нем было что-то неуловимо родное — то ли в прозрачном осеннем воздухе, то ли в радушной толкотне продавщиц сувениров в переходах метро…

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Я пыталась найти хоть какие-то отголоски событий на востоке Украины в лицах прохожих — но нет, город жил своей жизнью — люди спешили на работу в час пик, пару раз проезжали свадьбы, гуляли мамы с детьми… На площади у Крещатика улыбчивый мужчина сажал на плечи прохожим и детям белоснежных голубей и приговаривал «За мир» — это, конечно, не альтруизм, а его вполне неплохой бизнес, но идея мне очень понравилась. Упрямый скептик во мне твердил «Конечно-конечно, они же еще не знают, что ты из России..ты для них пока просто прохожий, а вот если догадаются…» Я прислушивалась к разговорам людей вокруг — и, к моему удивлению, большинство были на русском. По википедии и комментариям знакомых я знала, что в Киеве 70% населения — русскоязычные, но столкнувшись с обилием русской речи в сегодняшней-то ситуации (спасибо СМИ. сарказм) я почему-то была удивлена. Я говорила на русском с Киевлянами — и они радушно отзывались. Никто не морщился или не отвечал на украинском, как предписывали неугомонные российские газеты. Я покупала сувениры родным в метро под Майданом и разговорилась с продавщицей. Когда она узнала, что я из России — да еще и с Урала, она вдруг подошла и обняла меня — в глаза у нее стояли слезы и, не переставая, она сбивчиво говорила: «Что же вам такое наговорили про нас, что русские совсем перестали приезжать, а те, что приезжают, уже не считают нас за людей»… Эта пожилая очень грустная женщина прочно засела в моей памяти. Я бродила по переходам метро под Майданом и разглядывала товары в бесконечных сувенирных лавках. Да, Путина там не любят. Очень и иногда до нелепых перекосов. Не надо объяснять, почему. Но не раз мне попадались на глаза изображения русского и украинского флагов или обнимающихся человечков в национальных русских и украинских костюмах. И ни разу я не слышала негатива в свой адрес, когда люди понимали, что я из России. Эта война — политическая грязь, банальный раздел территорий между элитами и очередная страничка в истории геополитики, которая тщательно переписывается каждой из сторон на свой манер. Знаменитый Университ им. Шевченко и МГУ разорвали научные связи, честно не знаю, кто начал. Кто-то перестает брать на работу русских, кто-то — украинцев. Обидно. Больно. Бессмысленно. В какой-то момент у людей должно набраться благоразумия и совести перестать идти на поводу у политиков и увидеть картинку с другой стороны. Хочется верить.

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Я гуляла по Майдану и вспоминала все, что видела на экранах телевизора и бесконечных заметках в интернете. Сейчас Майдан, как и в былые времена, сияет белоснежным мрамором и золотом на статуе на вершине колонны. Восстановлены солнечные часы в обрамлении ярких цветов, снова на месте мостовая… Единственные напоминания о трагедии — ряды плакатов с фотографиями с Майдана на самой площади и мемориал, который кажется бесконечным у подножия солнечных часов. Фотографии, цветы, желто-голубые ленточки, кто-то приносит личные предметы — разбитые очки или компьютерную мышку… На фотографиях — как и совсем еще молодые мальчишки, так и взрослые серьезные люди, наверно, у них были семьи, им было, что терять. Вряд ли они положили свои жизни за слепую веру в американскую пропаганду, как нам неустанно твердили зимой СМИ… Даже в Киеве отношение к Майдану неоднозначное — кто-то с болью и гордостью говорит, что принимал участие — верил в то, что если народ соберется, то сможет убрать коррумпированного и зажравшегося президента. Кто-то резко осуждал с самого начала — отнюдь не идею борьбы с коррупцией, а то, что понимал, что социальными беспорядками в первую очередь воспользуются радикалы. То, в чем сходятся и те, и другие — боль за тех, кто потерял свои жизни на Майдане. Боль за то, что Россия, в свою очередь, воспользовалась слабостью Украины. Да и не только Россия.

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Чем больше я общалась с людьми, которые придерживаются прямо-таки полярных взглядов — с русскими бизнесменами, нашими политиками, людьми на ведущих позициях в ООН и ОБСЕ, представителями США или просто прохожими — я все больше убеждалась в болезненной догадке о том, что война выгодна обеим сторонам. И это отнюдь не война между Россией и Украиной. Россия в лице Путина выграла прямо-таки Кремлевский джек-пот: Крым-наш, резкий рост авторитета и легитимности всего, что исходит от небезызвестного нам товарища, который пару лет назад был далек от такого триумфа (вспомним Болотную), а также гениальная по своей сути экономическая сделка, когда в марте акции российских компаний и рубль резко упали в цене, а потом были выкуплены Кремлем и нашими же олигархами по бросовым ценам. Евросоюз, в свою очередь, перестал быть сомнительной перспективой и поводом для дискуссий в Украине — буферной и очень уж «вкусной» зоне между ЕС и РФ — и перешел из разряда кухонных дискуссий в «Украинский путь спасения». Черт возьми, как наивный идеалист я пытаюсь найти подтверждения, почему Украина должна неминуемо  разорваться между Таможенным Союзом и Евросоюзом, почему при уступках с обеих сторон невозможна какая-никакая золотая середина… Да, а еще страны, на территории которых наблюдаются внутренние конфликты, не могут войти в НАТО по определению. Все. Замолкаю. Пойду писать пост про поездку в Приднестровье.

Ушла, напевая себе под нос: «...Арлекины и пираты, Циркачи и акробаты, И злодей, чей вид внушает страх, Волк и заяц, тигры в клетке — Все они марионетки…»

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Taste of Albania: Ashura or Noah’s pudding

4 Ноя

Since I started discovering Albania, this wonderful country does not stop amazing me with its wonders — and it comes to everything — nature, people, traditions — and food. After trying delicious things from the local quizine I feel morally obliged to share some receipts 🙂

Today, for example, is the Ashura Day — that is celebrated by Sunny Muslims and Bektashi religious group in Albania as the day on which the Jewish people were freed from the Pharaon of Egypt. Take a note to the religious tolerance and compassion in muslim culture in the meanwhile ;)) Another amazing part of today is the Ashura pudding or Noah’s pudding. This meal is also cooked in Turkey, Iran, Lebannon and some other countries with local variations (in Turkey you will find in Ashura beans and pine nuts, for example).

You need the following:

  • 500 gr wheat
  • 1 kg sugar
  • raisins, different types of nuts and dry fruits
  • cinnamon, clove
  • pomergranate grapes and other fruits according to your preference

Basically, you just boil the wheat with sugar on high heat — when it starts to boil, shift to low heat and boil for 1 hour. In the separate bowl mix fruits and clove and add to the boiling mix in the pan. Boil on low heat for another hour, mixing and adding hot water if necessary. Serve in bowls (hot, warm or cold) and sprinkle with nuts, pomegrante seeds and cinnamon.

It’s actually really delicious — it even inspired me to write this receipt and share with you 🙂 

Bon apetit or, as we say in Albania — Ju befte mire! 🙂

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